Cima alla Genovese (Stuffed Veal)
By Master Chef Gianluca Deiana Abis
Cima alla Genovese is a traditional Italian dish from the city of Genoa, located in the Liguria region. It consists of veal that is stuffed with a mixture of vegetables, eggs, and often some type of pork, then slowly braised to tender perfection. This dish is a true testament to the use of fresh, locally-sourced ingredients and embodies the hearty, rustic flavors of Genoa’s culinary tradition. It is often served as part of festive meals, particularly during special occasions, and is known for its delicate balance of flavors and textures.
History of Cima alla Genovese
The origins of Cima alla Genovese trace back to the 16th century, when the Genoese aristocracy used to host lavish banquets that would showcase the wealth and culinary skills of the region. The dish was likely inspired by the ancient traditions of stuffed meats, where veal and other cuts were filled with a variety of fillings, which could include rice, herbs, vegetables, and meats.
Cima alla Genovese was popularized as a holiday and Sunday meal, especially around Christmas and Easter, when families would gather together to share a special feast. Over time, the recipe evolved, and various local variations emerged, but the basic technique of stuffing veal remained consistent. The "cima" in the name refers to the veal cut used, which is a portion from the veal's shoulder, prized for its tenderness.
The stuffing typically contains a mix of eggs, vegetables, and some form of cured meat or pork, and is cooked slowly to ensure the flavors meld together. Traditionally, the dish is served cold, sliced into thick pieces, and accompanied by a tangy sauce, such as a green sauce or vinegar-based dressing, to cut through the richness of the veal.
Ingredients for Cima alla Genovese
For the veal and stuffing:
1.5 kg veal shoulder (boneless, cut into a large piece, ask your butcher to butterfly it)
200g ground pork (optional, but adds richness)
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 small onion (finely chopped)
1 carrot (peeled and chopped)
1 celery stalk (chopped)
100g peas (fresh or frozen)
2 boiled eggs (chopped)
1 handful parsley (finely chopped)
2 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese
1/2 cup white wine
1 tablespoon vinegar (optional, for tanginess)
Salt and black pepper (to taste)
Kitchen twine (for tying)
For braising and serving:
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 cups vegetable broth (or water, as an alternative)
1 bay leaf
1 sprig rosemary
1 garlic clove (smashed)
Instructions
Step 1: Prepare the Stuffing
Heat the olive oil in a large pan over medium heat.
Add the chopped onion, carrot, and celery, and cook for about 10 minutes, until softened and fragrant.
Add the ground pork to the vegetables and cook until browned. If using, add the peas, and cook for an additional 3-5 minutes.
Remove the pan from the heat, and mix in the chopped boiled eggs, parsley, and Parmesan cheese.
Season the mixture with salt and pepper to taste. This stuffing should be moist but not too wet, so adjust the consistency with a little broth if necessary.
Step 2: Prepare the Veal
Lay the butterflied veal out on a clean surface, then season it generously with salt and pepper.
Spread the stuffing evenly over the veal, leaving a small border around the edges.
Roll up the veal tightly, ensuring that the stuffing is enclosed inside. Use kitchen twine to secure the veal and tie it into a firm cylinder.
Step 3: Braise the Cima
Heat olive oil in a large pot over medium heat.
Once the oil is hot, carefully place the stuffed veal in the pot and brown it on all sides. This should take about 10-15 minutes.
Add the white wine to the pot and let it cook off for a few minutes, stirring occasionally.
Add the vegetable broth, bay leaf, rosemary, and garlic. Bring to a simmer, then reduce the heat to low.
Cover the pot and cook for 1.5 to 2 hours, turning the veal occasionally to ensure even cooking. The veal should be tender when done. If needed, add more broth during the cooking process to maintain moisture.
Step 4: Rest and Serve
Once the veal is cooked and tender, remove it from the pot and allow it to rest for 10-15 minutes before slicing.
Slice the veal into thick rounds. Serve the slices cold or at room temperature, often with a drizzle of vinegar-based sauce or a green sauce made with parsley, garlic, olive oil, and vinegar.
Chef’s Tip
For an even richer flavor, you can marinate the veal overnight with herbs, garlic, and olive oil before stuffing it. This allows the meat to absorb the flavors and results in a more flavorful dish. Additionally, while Cima alla Genovese is typically served cold or at room temperature, you can also enjoy it warm, especially when freshly made. Serve it with a side of roasted vegetables or a light salad to balance the richness of the veal.
Enjoy the Tradition
Cima alla Genovese remains a staple of Genoese cuisine and continues to be enjoyed by both locals and visitors. This hearty, flavorful dish not only highlights the culinary skills of the Ligurian region but also showcases the traditional Italian approach to slow-cooked, flavorful meals that have stood the test of time. Whether you serve it as part of a festive meal or as a comforting family dish, Cima alla Genovese is sure to impress with its tender veal, flavorful stuffing, and rich history.
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