Coda alla Vaccinara

Coda alla Vaccinara

Coda alla Vaccinara

By Master Chef Gianluca Deiana Abis

1. History

Coda alla Vaccinara is a quintessential Roman comfort food, originating in the Testaccio district, historically home to Rome’s slaughterhouses. This dish epitomizes the ingenuity of cucina povera (peasant cooking), where humble cuts of meat—such as oxtail—were transformed into something deeply flavorful through slow cooking. Traditionally, the vaccinari (butchers) would set aside the tail and other less-desirable parts for their families, preparing them with aromatic vegetables, tomatoes, wine, and a hint of cloves. The result was a tender, richly flavored stew that became a cornerstone of Roman culinary heritage. Over the years, Coda alla Vaccinara has remained a beloved dish, cherished for its hearty texture and robust taste.

2. Step-by-Step RecipeIngredients:

• 1.5 kg (3.3 lbs) oxtail, cut into pieces

• 2 large carrots, diced

• 2 celery stalks, diced (plus a few celery leaves for garnish)

• 1 large onion, finely chopped

• 2 cloves garlic, minced

• 1 glass of dry red wine

• 800g (about 28 oz) canned whole peeled tomatoes

• 2 tablespoons tomato paste

• Olive oil

• Salt and pepper to taste

• A pinch of ground cloves or a couple of whole cloves (optional)

• Parsley for garnish (optional)

Instructions:

1. Brown the Oxtail:

   • Heat a generous amount of olive oil in a large, heavy-bottomed pot or Dutch oven over medium heat.

   • Season the oxtail pieces with salt and pepper.

   • Add them to the pot and brown on all sides. This step is crucial for developing a deep, rich flavor. Remove the oxtail and set aside.

2. Prepare the Sofrito:

   • In the same pot, add the diced carrots, celery, onion, and garlic. Sauté over medium heat until the vegetables are softened and fragrant, about 10 minutes.

3. Deglaze with Wine:

   • Pour in the red wine and scrape up any browned bits from the bottom of the pot. Allow the wine to reduce slightly, about 3–5 minutes.

4. Add Tomatoes and Tomato Paste:

   • Crush the canned tomatoes with your hands or a wooden spoon, then add them to the pot.

   • Stir in the tomato paste for extra depth of flavor.

   • If using cloves, add them now.

5. Simmer Slowly:

   • Return the browned oxtail to the pot, ensuring it is submerged in the sauce.

   • Lower the heat, cover, and let the stew simmer gently for 3–4 hours, stirring occasionally. The meat should become tender and easily fall off the bone.

6. Check Seasoning and Finish:

   • Toward the end of cooking, taste the sauce and adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper.

   • If you prefer a slightly thicker sauce, remove the lid for the last 30 minutes of cooking.

7. Serve:

   • Garnish with fresh parsley or chopped celery leaves if desired.

   • Serve hot, accompanied by crusty bread, polenta, or mashed potatoes to soak up the flavorful sauce.

3. Pairing

• Cesanese del Piglio (Lazio): A native red wine from the Lazio region, it has the structure and acidity to balance the richness of the dish.

• Aglianico del Vulture (Basilicata): With its firm tannins, dark fruit, and earthy notes, this wine complements the hearty oxtail stew perfectly.

• Chianti Classico (Tuscany): The bright acidity and cherry notes of Sangiovese can cut through the richness, making it a versatile choice.

• Montepulciano d’Abruzzo (Abruzzo): Medium-bodied with soft tannins and a hint of spice, it’s an approachable pairing for the flavorful stew.

4. Top Winery

• Casale della Ioria (Lazio): Renowned for their Cesanese wines, this winery offers a balanced, food-friendly red that’s perfect for Coda alla Vaccinara.

• Cantina del Taburno (Basilicata): A premier producer of Aglianico del Vulture, their structured, elegant wines enhance the dish’s deep flavors.

• Felsina (Tuscany): Known for exceptional Chianti Classico, Felsina’s wines bring a bright, nuanced complement to the rich, slow-cooked oxtail.

5. Chef Tips

• Browning the oxtail thoroughly is key to developing a deep, savory flavor. Don’t rush this step.

• Use high-quality canned tomatoes or fresh, ripe tomatoes in season for the best sauce.

• The dish is even better the next day. Make it ahead, let it rest overnight, and reheat gently—this allows the flavors to meld.

• For a truly authentic Roman touch, sprinkle a small amount of unsweetened cocoa powder over the stew before serving to add complexity and depth.

• Serve with a generous slice of rustic bread or creamy polenta to soak up every drop of the rich sauce.

6. Best Pair with:

• Cesanese del Piglio, Aglianico del Vulture, Chianti Classico, or Montepulciano d’Abruzzo.

• A side of sautéed greens or a simple green salad dressed with olive oil and lemon for balance.