Farinata di Cavolo Nero e Borlotti: A Tuscan Comfort Food

By Master Chef Gianluca Deiana Abis

1. A Glimpse into History

Farinata di cavolo nero e borlotti is a classic example of Tuscany’s cucina povera, which means peasant cooking. While farinata is famous for its chickpea flour pancakes in Liguria, in Tuscany, the term also refers to a hearty soup thickened with cornmeal or polenta. This dish combines two staples of Tuscan cuisine: cavolo nero (black kale) and borlotti beans. These ingredients are simmered together to create a warming and satisfying meal.

Historically, this recipe was a way to stretch simple ingredients into a nourishing dish for families. Today, it remains a beloved winter comfort food. It reflects Tuscany’s rich culinary heritage and a deep respect for seasonal, local produce.

2. Ingredients for the Recipe

To make this comforting dish, gather the following ingredients:

• 1 bunch cavolo nero (black kale), stems removed, leaves chopped

• 200g (about 7 oz) dried borlotti beans (or 400g canned, drained and rinsed)

• 2 carrots, diced

• 2 celery stalks, diced

• 1 onion, finely chopped

• 2 cloves garlic, minced

• 2 sprigs fresh thyme (optional)

• 1 bay leaf

• 1.5L (about 6 cups) vegetable broth or water

• 200g (about 1 1/2 cups) polenta (coarse cornmeal)

• Extra virgin olive oil for drizzling

• Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

  
  

3. Step-by-Step Instructions

1. Prepare the Beans (if using dried)

• Start by soaking the borlotti beans overnight.

• Drain and place the beans in a pot with fresh water. Add a bay leaf and a sprig of thyme.

• Bring the mixture to a boil, then reduce heat and let it simmer until the beans are tender, which takes about 1 to 1.5 hours. If you’re using canned beans, rinse them and set aside.

  
  

2. Sauté the Vegetables

• In a large soup pot, heat a few tablespoons of olive oil over medium heat.

• Add the onion, garlic, carrot, and celery. Sauté gently for 10 to 15 minutes until they soften.

  
  

3. Add the Cavolo Nero

• Stir in the chopped cavolo nero leaves. Cook for a few minutes until they start to wilt.

  
  

4. Add the Beans and Broth

• Add the cooked borlotti beans to the pot.

• Pour in the vegetable broth or water. Bring it to a boil, then lower the heat and let it simmer gently for about 30 minutes.

  
  

5. Incorporate the Polenta

• Slowly sprinkle the polenta into the soup while stirring constantly to avoid clumps.

• Continue to simmer, stirring frequently, for 15 to 20 minutes or until the polenta is cooked through. The soup should thicken to a creamy consistency.

• Add more broth if needed. Finally, season with salt and pepper to taste.

  
  

6. Serve the Dish

• Ladle the farinata into bowls. Drizzle generously with extra virgin olive oil and serve hot.

  
  

4. Perfect Pairing

Pair this comforting soup with a selection of Tuscan wines:

• Chianti Classico (Tuscany): The bright acidity and earthy notes balance the rustic flavors of cavolo nero and the creamy texture of the polenta.

• Morellino di Scansano (Tuscany): A medium-bodied red wine with soft tannins and a hint of spice enhances this comforting dish.

• Vernaccia di San Gimignano (Tuscany): For white wine lovers, Vernaccia’s crisp, mineral-driven character perfectly complements the richness of the polenta and beans.

• Rosso di Montalcino (Tuscany): This lighter Sangiovese with fresh red fruit notes pairs beautifully with the hearty yet delicate flavors of the farinata.

  
  

5. Notable Producers and Regions

Explore some exceptional wine producers and accompaniments to fantastic food:

• Frescobaldi (Tuscany): A historic Chianti Classico producer whose wines match the depth of this dish.

• Avignonesi (Tuscany): Known for their Vino Nobile di Montepulciano and Rosso di Montalcino, their medium-bodied reds provide a wonderful contrast to the creamy soup.

• Panificio in Tuscany: Local bakeries often offer rustic breads that are perfect for soaking up every last drop of farinata.

  
  

6. Chef Tips for Success

• Opt for fresh, seasonal cavolo nero for the best flavor. The leaves should be dark green and tender.

• For a richer texture, finish the dish with a splash of cream or a dusting of grated Parmigiano Reggiano.

• Want more flavor? Add a small piece of pancetta or guanciale to the vegetable sauté.

• Serve with toasted rustic bread, rubbed with garlic and drizzled with olive oil for an authentic Tuscan experience.

• Store any leftovers in the fridge and reheat gently. Like many soups, it tastes even better the next day.

  
  

7. Best Pairings To Elevate Your Meal

• Consider pairing with Chianti Classico, Morellino di Scansano, Vernaccia di San Gimignano, or Rosso di Montalcino.

• Add a wedge of Pecorino Toscano or a slice of toasted garlic bread for an enhanced dining experience. Enjoy your cooking adventure with the genuine taste of Tuscany!